Fes has flown by! When we first arrived we thought we'd look round the medina and head off the next day but even before bed our plans had changed. The donkey and hand wagon filled streets and souks draw in anyone with a healthy curiosity; what's round the next corner, what is hanging in the backshop, what's the craftsman making or what is that rich smelling green spice. One elderly chap in particular had a tiny medina shop full of wooden games he had made, using hands and feet and string bow he turned a richly scented cedar spinning top in front of us. We stopped for lunch/dinner in a converted 10th century mansion house sat proudly amongst the tiny passageways, climbing to the roof terrace across the landscape of tiles and satellite dishes the call to prayer washed over the busy city. The whole place and lifestyle had the feeling of not having changed in hundreds of years. 
Also accomplished in Fes was purchasing bike insurance! Waffa is one company in the Ville Nouvelle and it was easy to google for anyone facing similar problems at Ceuta. The next morning it was an early start to make the Mauritanian embassy visa application in Rabat, I really hope to explore Fes again in the future.
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