Sunday 17 April 2011

Kasbar and the Blue Medina

The crossing was an exciting start to the day, strong winds from yesterday were still blowing and one wave in particular managed to empty the fast cat's bar of glasswear. We took five to settle my stomach and clear our nostrils of the tangy smell of a hundred breakfasts revisited before Robin got the border crossing between his teeth. And a sterling job he did too!
Like a good game of chess no one should know what you are planning while at the same time *appearing* to show your opponent every intention. Dealing with touts at the border seems to be a similar game, as soon as they can guess what you want; you've just bought it from them. Great, look knowledgeable and confident and it'll be fine, try and stay looking confident when none of the offices have signs up, when none of the police have time to help and then finding the vehicle insurance office at the border closed 6 years ago and it's Saturday so the others won't be open until Monday... Taking a leak in the bathrooms of the hotel Ibis in Fnideq three hours later was a relief on more than one level! Traffic leaving Ceuta was certainly a lot easier to deal with than Tangier two years ago when Grant and I tackled it; in no time we were climbing green hills accented with impressive cloud capped peaks. The road was punctuated with heavily over-laden trucks squeezing out 20mph whilst running on soot and crunchy gears, getting past them presented as a reward sweeping curves and beautiful vistas.
At one point we pulled over in front of a blacksmiths. The forecourt displayed the ornate iron and wood bed frames they made. I'd spotted the familiar bright blue light radiating from the doorway and a few minutes later rode way with a jumbo sized foot on the end of the KTM's sidestand, ready to deal with the soft surfaces ahead!

Our target was Chefchaouen, a great point to start exploring the Rif on some of the recommended routes and a beautiful city in it's own right with an impressive Kasbar and beautiful pale blue medina. Finding our chosen hotel proved tricky but luckily we had spotted hotel Rif earlier and the friendly concierge helped us relax after the laps of the old town and slaloms of wheeled trollies, children and fresh produce had been completed. Simple but clean accommodation with a great view and attended parking, even if the shower room was also the fuse cupboard.
We've just come back from viewing the beautiful Medina and our first Moroccan meal. The souk like streets are filled with bright coloured bags, hats and spices, fabrics and smells while 'friends' touting for business seem to border on friendly banter. The whole place reminds me of the world of Indiana Jones, I love it already!

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